Mandala Madness Part 10

Mandala Madness Part 10

Mandala Madness Part 10

This week you add beautiful, soft curves to your Mandala, with an intricate dots and diamonds pattern.

The diamond shape has been used since time began to signify creation, to show the balance between the male/female. It can be found in traditional art forms all over the world, from the most primitive art to the most sophisticated types of art work and design.

This is one of my favourite parts of the whole design, yes it takes focus, and yes you will need to keep your wits about you!
But there are only two really tricky rounds, where you will constantly be swapping colours.
Also most of this part is worked continuously so please use a marker in the 1st stitch of each round to help you to keep track.

Your work will be flat again this week, but will curl up slightly, until we straighten out completely next week.

Take it slowly, and enjoy your creative journey.

 

Please remember this is my design and is covered by copyright law. You may share a link to this page with anyone, you may print off the photo or written tutorials for your own use, but please do not alter or change in any way.
Please love and respect me, as I love and respect you.

If you haven't read the introduction post, then please find it here. You will find all the information on Yarn Packs, how much yarn you will need, hook sizes, the finished size of your blanket and all the resources available.

It is worth book marking the main Mandala Madness page as it will contain all the posts about the project and each weekly part.

You may also like to add this CAL to your Ravelry Queue.

I also have a group on Ravelry, which covers all of my designs. I will try to check in there every day. I now have some lovely moderators, thank you so much for your help ladies.

I suggest taking a look through the photo tutorial here before downloading the pdf to work from, but if you just can’t wait to get started I have put all the pdf downloads together.

And for those of you who like to follow the Video Tutorial by Esther Dijkstra from itsallinanutshell.com, just click here and the link will take you straight to the video for this part.
Again my love and thanks to Esther for the amazing job she has done with these videos.

 

♥ PDF downloads

Written pattern with just a small picture. mandala madness part 10 written pattern
Photo tutorial.  mandala madness part 10 photo tutorial

♥ Translations

For the translated versions of the CAL, please click on the links here and it will take you straight to your preferred language. With no need to scroll down further on this page.
And another HUGE thank you to the awesome team of translators, from the CAL - Crochet A Long Facebook group, for the fantastic job they have done with all the translations.

 

Afrikaans                           Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Afrikaans
Dutch - Nederlands        Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Dutch
Danish - Dansk               Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Danish
Finnish - Suomi              Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Finnish
French - Français           Mandala-Madness-Part-10-French
German -  Deutsche       Mandala-Madness-Part-10-German
Greek -  Ελληνικα           Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Greek
Hebrew - עברית                 Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Hebrew
Korean  -   한국어.           Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Korean
Persian -   فارسی                 Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Persian
Polish -   Polski                 Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Polish
Russian -  на русском     Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Russian
Spanish - Español            Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Spanish
Swedish - Svenska           Mandala-Madness-Part-10-Swedish

 

Thanks to Natalie for the Russian Video Tutorial

Thanks to Carmen for the Spanish Video Tutorial

Mandala Madness Part 10

mm part 10

For the purposes of this tutorial I am using Scheepjes Merino Soft and a 4 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook.

The colours used in each round are listed below.

mm round 10 colours

US terms used throughout.

 AbbreviationsAbbreviations

Hints: Are typed in italics and coloured purple, they are to help and guide you and hopefully make life a little easier.
Reference to photos is [P] with the relevant photo number.
* Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is normally a repeat for a complete side and will consist of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.

Special Stitches

Popcorn: Make 5 dc in same st, remove hook from loop and insert from front to back of 1st dc and then into dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn. To make a starting popcorn, simply start with a standing dc or ch 3 as your 1st st.

 

 

Hint: In this part you will be working with 2 colours again.

Rounds 64 to 68 are continuous rounds, it is only at the end of Round 68 that you will join with a sl-st at the end of the round.

Where the rounds start straight into a repeat you will always make your first stitch into the next available stitch from the previous round.

Hint: I recommend placing a stitch marker in the 1st stitch to help you over the next 6 rounds, moving the marker up as you start each round.

64. With colour 1, join with a standing sc in 11th st after any ch-1 point space, sc in next 2 sts,

*hdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 47 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts,
[you should have 10 sts left before ch-1 point space [R63]] ch 6, sl-st in ch-1 point space 2 rounds down [R62, behind R63], ch 6, sc in 11th st after ch-1 point space [R63], sc in next 2 sts.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times, omit last 3 sc, last repeat ends with ch-6.
Continue straight on to next round.

Stitch Count: Per repeat: 6 sc, 6 hdc, 47 dc, 2 ch-6 spaces.
Total: 48 sc, 48 hdc, 376 dc, 16 ch-6 spaces.

You are now working continuous rounds.

 r64

65. *Sc in 10th st after ch-1 point space [R63], sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 49 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st [R63], ch 4, sl-st in ch-6 space, skip sl-st, sl-st in next ch-6 space, ch 4.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times.
Continue straight on to next round.
Stitch Count: Per repeat: 6 sc, 6 hdc, 49 dc, 2 ch-4 spaces.
Total: 48 sc, 48 hdc, 392 dc, 16 ch-4 spaces.

r65

Hint: you will have 2 chain spaces either side of the point at the back of your work, we will be using these spaces in the coming rounds.

Hint: In this round you will be working with 2 colours and carrying 1 colour behind the other, as you switch colours give the new colour a gentle pull to ensure an even tension throughout your work. Also ensure each stitch is made over the other colour to avoid loose loops at the back of your work.

This round is worked in both Rounds 64 and 65, do not accidentally count the 1st sc from Round 65 when working 1st fpdtr, which is made in the 2nd hdc of Round 64.

 

66. *Sc in next 2 sts after ch-4 space [R65], hdc in next 2 sts use colour 2 as you complete 2nd hdc, [P2,3,4]
(skip 4 sts [R64],  fpdtr in next st, use colour 1 to complete st, [P5,6,7] hdc in next st, use colour 2 to complete st, [P8,9] popcorn in next st, use colour 1 as you make the ch-1 to complete popcorn, [P10] hdc in next st, use colour 2 to complete st, [P11] fpdtr in same st [R64] beneath popcorn forming a V, use colour 1 to complete st, [P12] skip next st [R65],
hdc in next st, use colour 2 to complete st) [P14] 10 times,

r66a
skip 4 sts [R64],  fpdtr in next st, use colour 1 to complete st,
hdc in next st, use colour 2 to complete st,
popcorn in next st, use colour 1 as you make the ch-1 to complete popcorn,
hdc in next st, use colour 2 to complete st,
fpdtr in same st [R64] beneath popcorn forming a V, use colour 1 to complete st,
hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sc over next 2 ch spaces together, ch 3,
sc over next 2 ch spaces together [R64 and R65], ch 2.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times.
Continue straight on to next round, starting with colour 1 and carrying colour 2 as before, for the 1st stitch only.
Stitch Count: Per repeat: 4 sc, 36 hdc, 11 popcorn, 22 fpdtr.
Total: 32 sc, 288 hdc, 88 popcorn, 176 fpdtr.

r66b

67. Fasten off colour 2 after making 1st st.
Hint: Remember ch-1 at top of popcorn does not count as a stitch. [P2]  5th dc will fall in 1st popcorn.

You are still working continuous rounds.

*sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 69 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, skip ch-2 space, sc in next sc, skip ch-3 space, sc in next sc, skip ch-2 space.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times.
Continue straight on to next round.
Stitch Count: Per repeat: 4 sc, 2 hdc, 69 dc.
Total:  32 sc, 16 hdc, 552 dc.

r67

68. *sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 69 sts, hdc in next st, sc in 3 next sts.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times.
Join to 1st sc with a sl-st.
Stitch Count: Per repeat: 4 sc, 2 hdc, 69 dc.
Total:  32 sc, 16 hdc, 552 dc.

r68

In this round you will be making fpttr2tog, which is a front post triple treble 2 together, 4 times around your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops 4 times, leaving 2 loops on hook, repeat for other leg of st and then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. I know it looks like a bit of a handful, and it is quite easy to get way too loose, so take it slow and remember to roll the top of your stitches forward to avoid baggy tops!     We also go back to using 2 colours in this round.

 

69. Ch 1 and sc in same st,

*hdc in next 6 sts, use colour 2 as you complete 6th hdc, [P3] fpttr2tog 1st leg around 1st fpdtr and 2nd leg around the next fpdtr, [P7] [forming a point above popcorn], use colour 1 to complete st, skip next st,
(Working over colour 2, hdc in next 5 sts, use colour 2 to complete 5th hdc, fpttr2tog with 1 leg around each fpdtr either side of popcorn, use colour 1 to complete st, skip next st) 10 times,
working over colour 2, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 3 sts.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times, omit last sc.
Join colour 2 to 1st sc with a sl-st, fasten off colour 1. [P12] Stitch Count: Per repeat: 3 sc, 61 hdc, 11 fpttr2tog.
Total:  24 sc, 488 hdc, 88 fpttr2tog.

r69

70. Using colour 2 ch 1, skip st with sl-st, hdc in next st,

*(hdc in next 5 sts, fpdc around fpttr2tog) 11 times, [take care not to miss that 1st sneaky stitch after the fpdc], hdc in next 6 sts, skip next st, sc through ch-1 point space [R63] and next st [3rd sc], hdc in next st.*

On last repeat sc through R63 and R69 will be through 1st skipped st.

 Repeat from * to * 7 more times, omit last hdc.
Join to 1st hdc, fasten off, and secure all ends.
Stitch Count: Per repeat: 1 sc, 62 hdc, 11 fpdc.
Total:  8 sc, 496 hdc, 88 fpdc.

Hint: Please leave the gap behind the point sections loose for now, it will be easier to secure them later if you wish to.
Your work will curl forward at this point, but will become flat again after the next few rounds.

r70

WOW well done!!  Here’s a huge pat on the back from me 🙂

Now time to put your feet up and treat yourself to something nice 🙂

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27 Responses

  1. Dear Helen,

    I have had such a wonderful time with this pattern! I am however absolutely dumbfounded with row 66. I have been following Esters video’s and trying my best to follow the pattern to the best of my ability, but row 66 has really gotten me. I am always left with 3 stitches at the end. I have been stuck for a week and it is breaking my heart. It is quite a challenge and I love it, but now I just really need help. I have frogged so many times, my poor yarn is about to frog me (lol).

    • Helen Helen

      oh dear, bless you, it is a tricky one! ok for most people the problem comes by not skipping the stitch when you need to, and then you have too many at the end, I believe there is a mistake in the video, so if you have the hang of how to do it, follow the pattern very closely, and really check your stitck count, before you start and as you go 🙂

  2. Holy Moly!! That was a mission! I made though haha. Thank you for another great installment.

    • Helen Helen

      well done 🙂

  3. I’m on Part 10 round 69 and I’m having trouble. I got through the first repeat fine. Beginning with the first stitch (which is a sc) continuing with 6 hdc and then all the fpttr2tog all the way to the other side where you end with 5hdc and 3 sc. At the next repeat the first stitch is a hdc not a sc even though there is a remaining Sc from the previous round. I watched the video to see if maybe it would show a sc and then 6 hdc like the first repeat but it did not. I feel I am one stitch off and my first fpttr2tog appears to be pulling to the right. Do the sc from round 68 all have a sc in them? I see by the stitch count that there is supposed to be only 3 sc per repeat. My stitch count for round 68 is correct because I double checked it. Can anyone shed light on what I’m doing wrong?

    • Helen Helen

      ok…as you start round 69 you start in the 3rd sc, which is the one you omit right at the end of the 8th repeat.
      so just check you are not skipping to many or too few sts behind the fpttr2tog 🙂

  4. Thanks Helen. I ordered 1 more ball on Saturday. I just had 3 sections to finish the last row when I ran out. I absolutely love your design. You are taking me to levels of crochet that I never dreamed possible. Could not do it without Esther! I am going to order Dream Weaver when I finish the Mandala!! Thanks again! Gale

    • Helen Helen

      Esther is amazing 🙂 so pleased you are learning and having fun, Dream Weaver will be a doddle after this 🙂

  5. I ran out of color 636 / Canary on round 70. Did anyone else run out???

    • Helen Helen

      The deep pink? Carney, if you are using a larger hook or your tension is on the looser side may be the reason. I know most people had just enough, but some did need to order 1 more ball.

  6. I’ve heard that this part will be difficult and so it is.
    But it is a good thing for me actually, I need to focus and to do carefully.
    That helps me to do same thing with the “surprises” that life reserves!
    I want to say thank you again.
    I’m not so good in English so I need more explanation for last hint about leave gap loose… I don’t understand what it means
    Bless you

    • Helen Helen

      Where you joined the point from part 9 in the last round of part 10, it is only joined by 1 stitch, so there is a space/gap behind the point shape.

  7. Hello Helen! When you have a moment, would you mind please clarifying something for me? In Row 66, after the last fpdtr-popcorn-fpdtr (the 11th one) your instructions do not say to skip a stitch but to work an hdc in the next two stitches, followed by 2 scs. On the video, however, Esther demonstrates and says to skip the next stitch before working those last 4 stitches in the section. I am assuming that your instructions to NOT skip a stitch after the last motif repeat are correct, but I just want to be sure. No matter how many times I work the repeat, I can’t figure out how Esther has an extra stitch at the end–I only have 4 stitches left to work which means I can’t skip any. Would you please clarify this for me? Am I correct that we don’t skip a stitch at the end? Thank you so much.

    • Helen Helen

      Yes you are correct, there is not a st to skip after the last (11th) popcorn 🙂

  8. Thursday’s cant come around fast enough for me!
    Although I am only up to part 6, I am so excited about the beautiful colours and crochet stitches that are yet to come.
    As an experienced crocheter, the thrill of putting all the stitches together that I’ve learnt over the years is so exciting. I’m making the rainbow version and I love the colours and the different textures of the stitiches.
    Thank you so much for sharing your amazing talents Helen.
    I plan to make another Mandala in different colours when I’ve finished this.

    • Helen Helen

      So pleased you are having fun 🙂

  9. Hello helen i love your mandala i have a quistion with yarn do you have make him im coming from holland i want to make him with coton

    • Helen Helen

      You can use any yarn you like 🙂

  10. Helen, thank you for all the work that went into this amazing creation, I was a little worried about tackling this afghan. After having crocheting for over 40 years, I could only do the most simple of designs! I couldn’t read most patterns or graphs. I have ptsd, after remembering a childhood nightmare, 5 years ago. I couldn’t concentrate long enough to go from reading a few steps of instructions to doing the stitches! Well, I am very happy to say I have finished week 10 today! Between your design and Esther’s tutorials I been able to get this far, and I know I can go to the end. I have even order another kit to make another! Thank you to you, Helen and Esther There is a light at the end of this very long dark tunnel!

    • Helen Helen

      So pleased you are enjoying the madness 🙂 To me crochet is the best therapy 🙂

  11. Dear Hellen ,
    I love your pattern and enjoy it very much.
    I have a question , after round 65 my work is still very wavy. Should I do part 9 with all the tr again with a smaller size hook?
    Thank you so much
    Shelly

    • Helen Helen

      part 9 is very wavy…part 10 will pull it all together 🙂

  12. Thank you so much. This is so beautiful.

  13. I have come into this CAL a little late… I am only up to Part 5, but I am really enjoying the challenge 🙂 Thankyou for such a beautiful design…I can see me making more than just one.

  14. Helen, WOW is all one can say to express ones feelings about this design.I LOVE II have
    I have purchased 4 of your blanket patterns, but I don’t know which I want to do first, now with this wonderful Mandala, it is impossible to sleep without sweet dreams of COLOUR.
    We have a range of yarns here in AUST. but as yet I hav’nt
    found the combination of colours that you have. I wish I could purchase the packs of yarn, but that is beyond my pension.Dearest Helen, I thank you so much for your time and effort of your patterns, free and paid alike. They are a wonder to behold for me, and make my fingers want to work. Thank you, thank you.
    Edith Bell

    • Helen Helen

      Bless you Edith 🙂

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